Excerpts from an article in ICIS
* Increasingly, both clothing manufacturers and retailers see an advantage in bringing greener products to the consumer, and they are putting pressure on suppliers to adopt more eco-friendly practices.
* About 54m tonnes of fiber is processed each year, which requires approximately 1m tonnes of dyes and 7m tonnes of other chemicals and accounts for nearly one-third of global water usage and 4.3% of worldwide energy consumption – second only to pulp and paper processing. And much of this activity occurs in 50,000 or more small manufacturing plants across Asia.
* Chemicals are used not only to produce fibers, but also for scouring, bleaching, desizing, softening, mercerization, “We are responding to the stronger demand for ecological textiles” Janardhanan Ramanujalu, head of global business management for textile chemicals, BASF dyeing, printing and finishing textiles. They include specialty materials such as biocides, flame retardants, water repellants, stain blockers and antistatic agents, as well as more common ingredients including surfactants, waxes, starch and oxidizing agents.
* Flame retardants, particularly polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDEs), have become a concern.
* “While most manufacturers in the US have halted production of many PBDEs, there still must be an effort to prevent future release of these chemicals into the environment,” says principal author Kimani Kimbrough. Because there are large quantities of PBDEs found in consumer products, disposal of these products must be accomplished in such a way as to not further contaminate the environment, he adds.
* New alternatives include Teijin’s Super Extar, which chemically bonds to polyester fiber, preventing release to the environment. Even when burned, no cyan or halogenated toxic gases are generated, according to the company.
* Formaldehyde content on textiles has also become an issue in the US and Europe. One response is BASF’s formaldehyde-free Helizarin pigment printing system, which ensures “zero add-on” of formaldehyde during production and needs no further treatment. Helizarin is part of a comprehensive BASF initiative to address consumer safety, resource conservation and climate change within the textile industry. Other elements include two new fluorocarbon finishing systems for stain repellency and release. Both contain C6-based Lurotex fluorocarbon finish and Perapret booster for enhanced performance. With C6 technology, perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) levels are reduced to below the detectable limit using state-of-the-art analytical methods.